Antique 15ct Yellow Gold Opal, Demantoid Garnet & Pearl Brooch, Circa 1900

Antique 15ct Yellow Gold Opal, Demantoid Garnet & Pearl Brooch, Circa 1900

A particularly beautiful late Victorian to Edwardian brooch, crafted in 15ct yellow gold and unmistakably influenced by the flowing lines of the Art Nouveau period.

Three cabochon opals form the backbone of the design, each displaying flashes of green, blue, orange and red as the piece moves through the light. The largest oval opal sits centrally, framed by vivid green demantoid garnets and delicate seed pearls, with two further opals positioned at either end.

The goldwork is arguably just as important as the stones. Sweeping, asymmetric curves and open sections give the brooch the organic, almost botanical movement so associated with jewellery made around the turn of the 20th century. Rather than simply mounting gemstones onto gold, the whole piece has been designed as one continuous flowing form.

Demantoid garnet was among the most desirable green gemstones of the period, its intense colour and exceptional dispersion making it particularly effective alongside the softer play-of-colour of opal and the lustre of pearl.

Specifications

Period: Circa 1895–1910
Style: Late Victorian / Edwardian, with strong Art Nouveau influence
Metal: 15ct yellow gold
Principal stones: Three cabochon opals
Additional stones: Demantoid garnets and seed pearls
Design: Elongated openwork brooch with flowing foliate-style goldwork
Fastening: Traditional brooch pin fitting
Condition: Excellent Antique pre-owned condition, with age-related wear consistent with a piece more than a century old

The natural characteristics and play-of-colour within each opal will vary according to lighting and viewing angle.

A jewel very much of its period: opal, demantoid and pearl brought together in flowing gold rather than rigid symmetry. The sort of piece that immediately looks over a century old.